PUNTINATURA – WHAT IS IT? Traditional techniques and their origins

Dotting in Indian jewelry (often called granulation or dot work in English) is a very ancient decorative technique that is widely used in traditional Indian jewelry making. Here are the main aspects:

What is dotting in Indian jewelry

Dotting involves applying tiny metal spheres or dots (gold or silver) to the surface of the jewelry, creating geometric, floral patterns, or complex textures.
It is particularly common in 22-karat gold jewelry, typical of many regions in India.

Why is it used

• It enhances the metal and light: the micro-dots catch the light and give a rich but not excessive shine.
• It increases the perception of craftsmanship: each dot is often applied by hand or with traditional tools.
• It adds three-dimensionality: it creates textured surfaces, typical of the Indian style.
• Cultural reference: many dotted designs incorporate ancient symbols, such as lotus flowers, mandalas, and tribal motifs.

Most common techniques

1. Traditional granulation

It derives from ancient techniques (also used by Etruscan goldsmiths).
Micro-spheres of metal are created and soldered onto the surface using heat.

2. Dotting with a graver or punch

Used especially in Rajasthan and Gujarat:
The artisan engraves or “punches” the metal with small steel heads, creating micro-depressions or reliefs.

3. Dotted filigree

Very common in Cuttack (Odisha) and southern India:
Very thin wires are combined with decorative dots to create light and openwork structures.

Where is it most common

• Rajasthan → bracelets, chokers, and jhumka earrings with dotted patterns.
• Gujarat → solid silver with strong texturing.
• Tamil Nadu and Kerala → 22k gold with dotted details in ceremonial jewelry.
• Odisha → filigree with extremely fine micro-dots.

Value and quality

Quality dotting can be recognized by:

• regularity of the dots
• good adhesion without bleeding
• symmetrical design
• uniform finish of the metal

In the finest pieces, the dots are very small and regular, requiring hours of manual work.